Western Oregon offers so many beautiful and awe-inspiring places to see and experience, but what about Eastern Oregon? It turns out that the mostly desert side of the state also has many locales that you just have to visit! The Hells Canyon Scenic Byway is one of those places.
When to visit: the byway does take you over mountain roads and FR-39 is closed during winter; plan to drive the Hells Canyon Scenic Byway between May 15 and September 30 so you can enjoy the Wallowa Lake Tramway (check their season schedule to be sure of open and close dates).
You could drive the byway in one day, but you would be rushed and there are a lot of things you would have to skip; rushed travel gets you where you are going but is certainly not as pleasant or relaxing so we recommend easing the rush and taking three days to travel the byway and enjoying the leisure activities at Joseph/Lake Wallowa and Baker City.
The byway begins at La Grande. If you are coming from Washington or the northern part of Oregon, you will come to La Grande on I-84. Exit the freeway at Exit 261 to continue east on OR-82. We recommend that you top off your fuel tank in La Grande before leaving town even if you have a lot fuel in your vehicle; you can fuel up along the route in Wallowa, Enterprise, or Joseph but you will pay more per gallon. If you are coming from Northern Idaho you can come onto the byway at Enterprise from OR-3. Coming from eastern Washington offers a pleasant and scenic drive that comes onto OR-82 at Elgin.
We suggest leaving La Grande no later than 8:30 to allow lots of play time in Joseph and Wallowa Lake Village. The route passes through several small towns including Elgin, Wallowa, and Enterprise before arriving at Joseph. The route from Elgin to Joseph is some of the most scenic that you will see along the route.
The drive from La Grande to Joseph will take about an hour and 45 minutes (this time includes a few extra minutes to pull off the road and take a few photos of the mountains!).
Joseph
The rest of your day is a play day—and it starts in Joseph; you might consider staying two nights to allow yourselves more time for activities in Joseph and Wallowa Lake Village.
To use the word “quaint” to describe Joseph feels clichĂ©d, but it fits—this small town situated at the base of the mountains, often referred to as the “Little Switzerland of America,” has a lot of charm and personality; I recall saying, “How would it be to view that mountain scene every morning through your front window!”
Below are our top picks for things to do in Joseph:
There really are only a few stores and probably as many art galleries, yet the storefront parking fills up fast; however, a left turn off Main St. onto E. Wallowa Ave. leads you to a free public parking lot that includes restroom facilities—from that parking lot we watched three mule deer just across the street as they wandered from yard to yard.
The Bronze Artwalk: walking the few blocks that form the town center you will find a number of skillfully executed bronzes that decorate the street—and they are worth viewing. These examples of artistic sculpture only hint at the international acclaim Joseph’s artists have earned by their craft.
Arrowhead Chocolates: the store does happen to open early as they serve coffee and tea, but what we went for was their hand-made chocolates, offered in both milk and dark chocolate. The confections were on the expensive side (well, they are hand-made chocolates), but oh so worth it! Chantelle and I both agree that the huckleberry and the lemon truffles are among our favorites, but I am also taken by the marzipan and chocolate covered butter toffee. Open: daily 8-5.
Mad Mary’s Gift Shop and Soda Fountain: browse the gift shop side to find your perfect tourist t-shirt with just the right JOSEPH image printed on it and then get your ice cream cones in the soda fountain. Go shortly after they open—the soda shop will be redolent with the delectable aroma of grilling waffles for the cones—the aroma makes an ice cream cone absolutely irresistible! Open: daily 10-6.
Wallowa County Museum: 110 S Main St, housed in the historic First Bank of Joseph building, built in 1888, now on the National Register of Historic Places. My favorite exhibit is a series of prints taken from images that were painted under the direction of Nez Perce survivors from the Nez Perce War. The images include lengthy captions that offer snapshots of events that occurred during that war. Plan on 45 minutes to one hour for your visit. Open: Wed-Mon 10-4. Admission: Adults $6, 65+ $5, 7-17 $2, 6 and under Free.
Valley Bronze Gallery: the gallery is located in one of Joseph’s historic buildings and offers viewing of a range of amazing art in cast bronze as well as other art media. Open:
Thur-Sat 10-5. Tours of the foundry are also available. A tour usually lasts between an hour to 1.5 hours. Cost is $15 per person, maximum group size 30 people. To arrange, call 541-432-7551 or email info@valleybronze.com
Iwetemlaykin State Heritage Site
The heritage site, still considered sacred by the Nez Perce people, is on the right side of Wallowa Lake Hwy only about 1000 feet after leaving Joseph. The site is worth the stop, worth the time to hike the easy trails and read the interpretive panels that inform the reader of this region’s importance and sacred nature to the Nez Perce people. You’ll also learn something about how the Nez Perce lived and traded with their neighbors and how they gathered near this very spot to begin their sorrowful journey in an attempt to elude the U.S. Army in their flight to Canada.
Plan on 45 minutes to 1.5 hours for your visit, dependent upon how much of the trail you hike.
Old Chief Joseph’s Gravesite
Only 2000 feet further along the Wallowa Lake Hwy is the gravesite of old Chief Joseph, father of the more famous young Chief Joseph who attempted to lead the Nez Perce people to Canada. Father Joseph’s gravesite had been desecrated again and again and was moved to the current Wallowa Lake site in 1926. Thousands attended the reburial ceremony, both white and Nez Perce.
Wallowa Lake Tramway
A 10-minute drive along the shore of Wallowa Lake on Wallowa Lake Hwy 351 will bring you to Wallowa Lake Village. We suggest riding the tramway to the summit of Mt Howard first and then enjoying other activities in the village for the remainder of the afternoon and evening.
The tramway is a do-not-miss activity at Wallowa Lake Village! In fact, Chantelle and I determined it to be the key highlight of our entire trip along the Hells Canyon Byway. Note closing times—you will want to allow yourself a minimum of an hour for this activity, 30 additional minutes if you have a meal on the summit. We recommend purchasing your tickets in advance and bringing your printed tickets with you as you can then bypass the ticket purchase line. You will likely still wait at least 15 minutes to board the tram. The Swiss-built gondola will take 14 minutes to lift you 3700 feet to the summit of Mt Howard at 8150 feet—and the experience is absolutely spectacular! The awesome and majestic views of the surrounding rugged mountain peaks just add to the spectacle.
Hiking Trails: there are a total of 2.5 miles of trails around the summit, starting with Royal Purple at 1/8 mile. None of the trails are particularly difficult so visitors of most any age and physical condition can enjoy all or part of the summit trails. Be ready to take some awe-inspiring photos! Bring a jacket—and possibly gloves and a hat—if the temperature is moderate in Wallowa Lake Village, the temperature at the summit is likely to be at least 15 degrees cooler.
Summit Grill and Patio: if you haven’t yet had lunch, the lift terminal building also houses the Summit Grill, where you can enjoy a great repast with what will be one of the best views you will ever enjoy during a meal. The Summit Grill opens at 10 and closes one hour before the last tram down the mountain.
Here are details you will need, including the address to enter into your navigation app:
Wallowa Lake Tramway, 59919 Wallowa Lake Highway, Joseph, OR 97846; 541-432-5331. 2021 season: open May 15-Sep 30, 10-4, Jul-Aug 10-5. Admission: Adults 18-64 $50, Seniors, Military with ID, students 12-17 with ID $47, Children 4-11 $44, 3 and under Free; 2-day tickets also available. To purchase tickets: wallowalaketramway.com
Miniature Golf and Matterhorn Village
Enjoy miniature golf on an attractive, shaded 18-hole championship course, homemade fudge and other sweet treats. After your round of miniature gold, visit The Matterhorn Village right next door for Tillamook ice cream in a fresh waffle cone and browse the gift shop. 59950 Wallowa Lake Hwy, Joseph, OR 97846, 541-432-4071. Open: daily 10-7 (miniature golf is open later into the evening in the later season).
Accommodations
Wallowa Lake Lodge: we highly recommend this location—but book early as this one fills up fast. The lodge was originally built in 1923, and then remodeled and the 3-story addition added in 1926. We love these venerable, unique sites that exist from another age and this one offered us a pleasant experience. The lodge is open seasonally, but does offer cabins that are open year-round. We should note that this is rustic lodging—no tv, no air conditioning, no ice maker, and no in-room phone but it does offer a large back deck, a huge lawn and lawn chairs from which to sit and view the Wallowa River as it gurgles by and empties into the lake—we even watched two does and two juvenile deer as they meandered along the far bank of the river. 60060 Wallowa Lake Hwy, Joseph, OR 97846, 541-432-9821. Note: no pets allowed.
Other accommodations are available in Wallowa Lake Village and in Joseph, but be careful as an internet search will bring up locations as far away as La Grande.
Dining
The Redd at Wallowa Lake Lodge: offers a great menu and they do take reservations. Like the lodge, the dining room is closed in winter. 60060 Wallowa Lake Hwy, Joseph, OR 97846, 541-432-9821. Open: seasonally, daily 11-9.
A convenient option in the village: Glacier Ridge Grill and General Store: this location is right across the road from Wallowa Lake Lodge. 72784 Marina Ln, Joseph, OR 97846, 541-432-9292. Open: daily 9-8 (though in early and late season they may not open until lunchtime).
There are several restaurants in Joseph also—here are two that we found to be delectably awesome: Cheyenne Café, 209 N Main St, Joseph, OR 97846 and Old Town Café, 8 S Main St, Joseph, OR 97846.
On to the Hells Canyon Overlook
The next morning begins day two of the scenic drive! Aim to head out early as there is still much to see and do today. Be sure to bring plenty of water and snacks or even sandwiches as there will be no services available until late in the day. Also, note that you will have no cell service for long stretches of the route. And if you didn’t fuel up at La Grande, Joseph is your last chance to get gas.
From Joseph, head east on OR-350 ( Imnaha Highway); after about seven miles, turn right onto FR-39 and prepare yourself for a drive through forested mountain country—and remember to use your lower gears on the descents to avoid overheating your brakes. The route doesn’t appear too long on the map, but you will be driving it at lower speeds as you ascend and descent the mountain slopes on a constantly curving road with frequent hairpin turns.
Near the Ollokot Campground, turn left onto FR-3965 for the short drive to the Hells Canyon Overlook. You can’t actually see the Snake River as there is a ridge between the overlook and the river canyon, but the rugged mountain scenery is worth the stop. The Snake River at this point passes through a canyon that is more than a mile deep—the deepest river gorge in North America.
Vault toilet facilities are available at the overlook.
Time Management: the drive from Joseph to the overlook will likely take two to 2.5 hours; add another 15 minutes for walking around at the overlook.
Off the Mountain
Returning to FR-39 will bring you down the mountain to the junction with OR-86. From the junction you can turn right and head toward Baker City, but if you turn left you can drive the amazing route to the Hells Canyon Dam, and we say, go for the drive!
Time Management: the drive from the overlook on FR-39 to OR-86 junction is 45 minutes; if you decide for Baker City, the drive from the OR-86 junction will be 1.5 hours; however, if you choose to go east to Hells Canyon Dam, the drive to the dam will be about 50 minutes from the junction—if you plan 15 to 30 minutes at the dam and visitor center, that adds at least two hours to the time required to reach Baker City.
Hells Canyon Dam
If you have opted for the dam, you are in for a treat! The drive to the Hells Canyon Dam is worth the view of the steep, roughhewn rock walls of the canyon from river level.
After turning left on OR-86 you will travel about 11 miles; shortly before reaching Copperfield you will turn right and cross the river into Idaho. Turn left and continue 22 miles to the dam; the road will seem a lot longer that 22 miles because, like most roads along the byway, this one is befitting a road along the Snake River—snaking curves and hair pin turns. Chantelle and I joked that there were only two stretches of straight road—one of 100 yards and one of 200 yards! We were being facetious, but it may not have been too far from correct!
We were pleasantly surprised at how much wildlife we observed on this Idaho road. We had to stop for a group of seven mule deer who were meandering across the road—with a dozen wild turkeys mixed in among them! Only a couple miles down the road we encountered another five mule deer.
Be sure to visit the Hells Canyon Creek Visitor Center about three-quarters of mile north of the dam. The center remains closed due to Covid-19, but vault toilet facilities are available.
Here are details you will need, including the address to enter into your navigation app:
Hells Canyon Dam – Hells Canyon Road – NF 454, Council, ID 83612
Dinner Along the Way
If you opted for the drive to Hells Canyon Dam, you’re probably getting hungry for real food. If you plan to visit the Oregon Trail Interpretive Center today, you likely won’t have time to stop and eat (unless you got an early start). However, if you’ve already decided to stay the night in Baker City and come back to the interpretive center in the morning, consider stopping for a meal in Halfway, Oregon, perhaps at The Main Place CafĂ© & Grill (closed on Sunday and Monday). Another option is Wild Bills & Co. Ten miles further along OR-86 is Richland and Shorthorn Bar & Grill.
Here are details you will need, including addresses to enter into your navigation app:
The Main Place Café & Grill, 134 Main St. Halfway, Oregon 97834. Open: Tue-/sat 11-8. Wild Bills and Co., 105 N Main St, Halfway, OR 97834. Open: Fri-Mon 12-7. Shorthorn Bar & Grill, 200 Main St, Richland, OR 97870. Open: Tue-Wed & Sun 6-7, Thu-Sat 6-8.
Oregon Trail Interpretive Center
This site is absolutely a must-stop along the route! The center is managed by the Bureau of Land Management and is an impressive educational center—23,000 square feet in size. We were here for hours. There are a great many displays but also a lot of reading material on the panels along the aisle ways. Several paved and unpaved walking paths lead to more interesting points outside the center, including actual ruts and swales that still remain in the pristine desert lands below the center. If you plan to hike the outside trails, remember to bring water, sunscreen, and probably a hat.
Time Management: your visit to the center is likely to take at least two hours; if you also walk the paths on the shallow slope below the center, plan on another hour. Don’t cut your visit short if you arrive late! Better to stay in Baker City and come back the next morning (or visit both days).
Here are details you will need, including the address to enter into your navigation app:
Oregon Trail Interpretive Center, 22267 OR-86, Baker City, OR 97814; 541-523-1843. Open: daily 10-5, including holidays. Admission: Summer: 16+8 senior $6; Winter: 16+ $5, senior $4; admission good for two days. Gift shop on site.
Remnants of the Oregon Trail
The Oregon Trail was 2170 miles of wagon routes across the western United States. Amazingly, 300 total miles of ruts and swales remain to this day. The left image below is of the swale below the Oregon Trail Interpretive Center; the right image is of a swale on a slope in the Blue Mountains. You can view this swale near the I-84 Deadman Pass rest area eastbound (traveling toward La Grande). A historical marker at the edge of the truck park will lead you to this Oregon Trail remnant.
Historic Geiser Grand Hotel in Baker City
There are several hotels you could stay at in Baker City, but the Geiser Grand is an experience we encourage you to indulge in.
The hotel, of Italianate Victorian architecture, opened in 1889; this grand hotel was known as “the Queen of the Mines” and was touted as the finest hotel between Salt Lake City and Portland. Age and changing economies resulted in the hotel closing in 1968, shortly after the hotel was used in filming Paint Your Wagon. Rapid deterioration almost led to the building being razed by the city but investors stepped in to save the hotel and began a seven-million-dollar restoration and this grand monument to Oregon history reopened in 1993.
Do I sound like we enjoyed our stay at the Geiser Grand? The extensive finished woodwork, fourteen-foot ceilings on the ground floor and twelve-foot ceiling in our guest room, a second-story stained glass ceiling viewed from the ground floor through a large circular opening over the ground floor dining room… there are few activities we could promote more than a stay at the Geiser Grand—what’s the saying… “just do it!”
If you waited until Baker to have dinner, The Palm Court in the hotel—under the stained glass ceiling—offers a great menu. You can enjoy another great meal for breakfast. Be sure to go down to the basement level to view the displays on the history of the hotel—and take the stairs instead of the elevator at least once.
Here are details you will need, including the address to enter into your navigation app:
Geiser Grand Hotel, 1996 Main St, Baker City, OR 97814; 541-523-1889. Restaurant and gift shop on site.
Baker Heritage Museum
Hopefully, come the next morning, you will have time to visit the museum before your trek is homeward bound. The building itself is worthy of interest: it is over 100 years old and started as a natatorium, which is to say, indoor swimming pool. The museum is comprised of 32,000 square feet of a wide array of displays that showcase Baker County history, which includes mining, logging, ranching, local Chinese heritage, and of course, the filming of Paint Your Wagon. Plan on one hour to 1.5 hours to tour the museum.
Here are details you will need, including the address to enter into your navigation app:
Baker Heritage Museum, 2480 Grove St, Baker City, OR 97814, 541-523-9308. Open: Mon-Sat 10-4, Sun 12-4. Admission: Adult $8, Seniors and Youth 13-17 $7, 12 and younger Free.
Thank you for reading our suggested travel itinerary for the Hells Canyon Scenic Byway. We hope you are inspired to drive the route for both leisure and education.
Updated June 2024
Hit the Road in the Pacific Northwest 