The heart of the Journey Through Time Scenic Byway is the John Day Fossil Beds National Monument, often called one of the seven wonders of Oregon, comprised of three units: Clarno, Painted Hills, and Sheep Rock. The fossil beds show visitors how the region has drastically changed, both in climate and animal and plant evolution, over the past 40 million years.
Coming from the east: exit I-84 at Arlington and head south on SR-19. At Fossil, turn right onto SR-218.
If coming from the west: exit I-84 at Biggs Junction and head south on US-97. Continue on 97 for about 56 miles to Shaniko, then turn left onto 218. From Shaniko the scenic byway truly begins. About 8 miles south of Shaniko, 218 junctions with 293 at Antelope; swing left to stay on 218.
The route could easily be driven in reverse, starting at Baker City, perhaps still acquiring accommodations in John Day after visiting the Sheep Rock Unit and the Thomas Condon Visitor Center, then proceeding the next day to the Painted Hills Unit and the Clarno Unit.
NOTE: Services are sparse along the route. Remember to top off fuel in Arlington or Biggs Junction. Be sure to bring snacks and plenty of water, especially in summer as it can get quite warm. A hat and sunscreen are also good items to have and be sure to wear good walking shoes. You may want to print the itinerary so you have it for reference in areas without cell service.
Best time to visit: the John Day National Monument and the Thomas Condon Visitor Center are open year round, though you may want to avoid the winter months to avoid potentially hazardous roads. Another consideration is the fact that many of the parking lots at various sites are rather small so, at least in summer months, a visit during the week may be preferable to a weekend visit (but remember that the Thomas Condon center is closed on Tuesday and Wednesday).
Trails of the Clarno Unit
About 15 miles east of Antelope (or 12 miles west of Fossil if coming from the east) turn off to the parking lot of the John Day National Monument Clarno Unit where rest rooms are available. Note that there is additional parking just west of the primary parking lot. Come see the beautifully carves rock formations and even actual fossils from when the region was a semi-tropical rain forest. There are three short trails and all three are accessible regardless of where you park. All three trails take you to some remarkable features. Arch Trail is .25 miles each way; Trail of Fossils is a .25 mile loop; Geologic Time Trail is .25 miles each way. Plan on one hour for your visit.
Lunch
You have likely driven a fair distance to start the itinerary and are ready for lunch! There are a couple of recommended places in Fossil for lunch. Brenda’s Blessings, 505 Main St, 541-763-3000; The Royal Stag, 415 First St, 760-932-4343 (closed on Sunday).
Painted Hills Unit
From Fossil, head southeast on SR-19 (218 junctions with 19 just as you enter Fossil). After roughly 20 miles, turn right onto SR-207. After 22 miles, 207 junctions with Hwy 26; turn right onto US-26; after 3.5 miles, turn right onto Burnt Ranch Rd/Bridge Creek Rd. After roughly three miles, turn left onto Bear Creek Rd; a little over a mile will bring you to the Painted Hills Viewpoint. Come see Mother Nature’s broad brushstrokes in vivid reds and yellows. There are five trails at the site and each has their own parking. We recommend at least these two: the Overlook Trail is perhaps .25 miles out and back; Carol Rim Viewpoint is .5 miles out and back. Vault toilets are available at the information center. Plan on one to 1.5 hours for your visit.
Mascall Overlook
Return to US-26 and turn left to head east toward John Day; about two miles past the junction with SR-19, turn right onto Dayville-Wheeler County Line Rd. After roughly a quarter-mile stay to the right to the overlook parking. A short walk takes you to the overlook.
Accommodations in John Day
Continue southeast on Hwy 26 to John Day. There are few selections for accommodations so plan well ahead when booking your reservation. Best Western John Day Inn would be our recommendation—jetted spa and complimentary full breakfast! 315 W Main St, John Day, OR 97845, 541-575-1700.
Thomas Condon Paleontology and Visitor Center
Day two begins by backtracking about 25 miles on US-26 and turning right onto SR-19; the Thomas Condon Center is just a couple miles north of the junction.
The visitor center is an inviting 11,000 square foot facility that displays over 500 fossils covering 50 million years of the age of mammals; expansive murals illustrate the environment in which the fossil plants and animals once lived. You can also enjoy an 18 minute film and a visit to the Discover Your Northwest bookstore. Plan on 1.5 to two hours for your visit.
Thomas Condon Paleontology Center, 32651 OR-19, Kimberly, OR 97848, 541-987-2333. Open: Thu-Mon 10-4, closed New Year’s Day, Juneteenth, Christmas, and New Year’s Day. Admission: Free.
Trails of the Sheep Rock Unit
Sheep Rock, just north of the visitor center, is the hub of the national monument and there are seven hiking trails; trails are open daily during daylight hours. Foree Trailhead comprises two trails: Flood of Fire is .4 miles round trip, Story in Stone is .3 miles round trip; the latter is mostly level and is partially paved. Blue Basin Trailhead also comprises two trails: Island in Time is 1.3 miles round trip; Blue Basin Overlook is a 3.25 mile loop that is moderate to strenuous, with 600 ft elevation gain. James Cant Ranch Historic District also comprises two trails: River Trail is .6 miles round trip and mostly flat; Sheep Rock Overlook Trail is .5 miles round trip. Thomas Condon Overlook Trail is .25 miles starting at the visitor center parking lot. Plan on one to three hours, depending on how many of the trails you hike.
And with that the itinerary is complete! We hope you enjoyed your immersion into natural history and are looking forward to the next Hit the Road in the Pacific Northwest itinerary.
Hit the Road in the Pacific Northwest 